We hadn't yet had the opportunity to meet with anyone from any of the Aboriginal communities, so I didn’t know what to expect from the afternoon. I was looking forward to speaking with the proprietors of the catering outfit, Gina and Raylene, of “Kungkas Can Cook." Their reputation preceded them, although Athol, who had organized the outing was a little tight-lipped about what to expect, other than to say, “you're in for a treat.” This is a phrase we've heard a lot on this trip. Apparently, Gina and Raylene's business is doing well, they've established a reputation for talent and are also very gracious about sharing their knowledge of the Australian Bush.

That day, they picked us up at our hotel in their 4-wheen drive Land Cruiser. Like everybody else in Alice, they overwhelmed us with kindness. I was taken aback at how inviting and friendly they were. We chatted all the way to our outdoor location – about food, culture and the mutual acquaintances they had with David. They told us that the word “Kungkas” means Aboriginal women. They seemed very knowledgeable in bush foods and culture, and this was certainly confirmed when they started cooking.

They took us to a dry riverbank – one of many in the arid landscape around surrounding Alice Springs -- about 50 km out from the center of town. There, we unloaded and they began digging in the sand to build a mini fire pit. I helped them find the firewood necessary and before I knew it, they had a kangaroo tail (fur and all) over the heat of the fire. Gina started by removing the fur in the traditional manner (using the fire to singe it off). She described it as burning the fur by scalding the skin. It worked! She then wrapped it in aluminum foil (“a modern day modification”) and buried it beneath the embers to finish cooking. It was about the length of my arm.

In the meantime, Raylene had set out a bush buffet of pastries made with indigenous ingredients, crackers and cheese, wild passion fruit and – to everyone’s surprise – honey ants! I had seen these critters the day before at a local food group meeting and was betting that my wife, Jackie, would not go near them with a ten-foot pole. Evidentally, they are quite a gourmet item in Aboriginal culture and very rare. Their backsides are bulbous with honey and to eat them you suck the honey from their bodies while they’re still alive.

As expected, Jackie gave the ants a glance and a “no way,” as did Rosa, Jean-Jacques’ wife, so I happily squeezed the honey on a plate for them to taste. Everyone else took it straight from the ants and loved every moment. The honey was incredibly sweet and comparable to the finest bee’s product, with a little formic acid “kick” at the end. I was OK with this bizarre food, but I’m happy I didn’t have to eat a witchetty (Witchetty grubs), yet another gourmet treat for the Aborigines.

Meanwhile, Raylene prepared some traditional bread dough, called damper and placed it in an iron pot to bake over the heat of the fire. Before it was finished, the kangaroo tail came out and was ready for the picking. Gina broke off pieces for everyone to try. We were all impressed at how tender and delicious, if not a bit gamey, the meat was.

One of my most memorable moments of this trip was sitting on the sandy ground in front of the fire with Gina, talking food. I was interested to learn that only the elders, or the most respected members of an Aboriginal tribe, get to eat the kangaroo tail. It is quite a delicacy reserved for those who earn the right to eat it. Also, different Aboriginal language groups have different methods of butchering and preparation, depending on their spiritual beliefs and how they want to pay tribute to the animal who gave its life for their sustenance. This direct connection to the land and the food it provides is something we in the West could learn a little more about.

Once we were all full with fantastic food, Gina and Raylene took us on a walk around the bush to share their knowledge of the local flora. Many of the trees and bushes they pointed out had medicinal qualities, including a small leafy weed-like plant, which is of great value to Aboriginal women. Evidently, they use it for its hallucinogenic properties; the way they described it it is one step beyond tobacco. They were quick to pick some to bring back to Gina’s great aunt and, as Gina put it, “really make her day.” We put the collection on top of the car and not in it for the ride home.

Before we left, they gave us gifts – hand painted beads, carved wood and aboriginal art covered journals to remember them by. We were all overwhelmed by their generosity – in giving us these mementos and in sharing their knowledge of the Australian arid landscape. I thought this was incredibly generous of the two humble women. I just hope that Jackie and I can hook up with them again next time we are in Alice -- and there will be next time!

Honey Ant Photo courtesy of Geraldine Lee