We met Athol Wark, Executive Chef for the Alice Springs Convention Center, in the antechamber of the Alice Springs City Council House. He and Adriel were putting the finishing touches on a meal specially prepared for the City Council featuring ingredients that are coming to be known as “wild foods.” The phrase encompasses the wide variety of indigenous fruits, vegetables, spices, and foods found in Australia that previously have been typically associated with the “bush tucker.” But where the phrase “bush tucker,” conjures up an image of a meal consisting entirely of grubs, “wild foods” embraces all of the unique foods and ingredients that are native to Australia and can be used to create dishes that are uniquely Australian.

Chef Wark’s dinner for the Alice Spring City Council was an outstanding example of such dishes: Salt Bush Tempura, Gatherers Oysters on Bush Tomato Roesti with Muntries Chutney and Kakadu Plum, Smoked Emu and Pear Fondant Pinwheels, and Lemon Myrtle Spiced Carrot Soup Sip. Incorporating wild foods, Chef Wark prepared a variety of appetizers that could have been served at any fine dining restaurant or 5-star hotel anywhere in the world, just beautiful. The execution was straight out of Athol’s pedigree and European-trained sensibility while the ingredients were peculiarly Australian. The combination was dynamite and, although a little tentative at first, as Athol and Adriel talked the politicians through the various items skepticism gave way to enthusiasm. Athol’s seen it before. Relatively new to working with wild foods, Chef Wark is a pioneering spirit wrapped in the discipline of an exemplary culinary professional. Born in Zimbabwe, he grew up in South Africa and England and says it was his parents’ idea to send him to culinary. He was more interested in geology until his parents pointed out to him that if he learned how to cook, he’d never go hungry and would have a portable skill that would enable him to travel around the world if he wished. He did and his early travels included France, a stint on the QE2, and a number of different assignments in properties in Australia. “Today, to be an executive chef, you have to have experience in everything,” he will tell you and his career is a testament to the process of learning. Which is, perhaps, why he has gotten excited about working with wild foods and is excited about the prospect of expanding his repertoire and teaching others to do the same. Beginning in September, Athol will be offering a variety of cooking classes through Centralian University using wild foods.

“I have set a goal,” says Athol, “to keep improving our offerings.” To do that, he is turning to the locals and the landscape for inspiration and ingredients: Lilli Pilli, Emu Eggs, Wild Limes, Muntries (Native Cranberries), Desert Raisins (Bush Tomatoes) just to name a few. The options are as potentially endless as Chef Wark’s enthusiasm and dedication. We’re looking forward to what comes next.